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The Middle East is a grand epic, a cradle of civilizations and a beautiful, complicated land that's home to some of the planet's most hospitable people. The Middle East’s cities read like a roll-call of historical heavyweights: Jerusalem, Beirut, Cairo, İstanbul, Esfahan... Aside from ranking among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, these ancient-modern metropolises are places to take the pulse of a region. It is in the Middle East's cities, too, that you find the stirring, aspirational architecture that so distinguishes the thr